The Voyage of the Swan
 
Approaching Catalina. Rhonda is at the bow where two Pacific White Sided Dolphins played for 45 minutes.
Anchored at Mariner’s Cove, Mission Bay, San Diego.
In the Trades.
Sunset over Guadalupe Island (Mexico).
Squid came aboard nightly. No, Chris, we did not eat them.
This sea bird spent the night. Our friend Art D’Andrea will appreciate this one.
Fishing in the Doldrums.
The sunset picture. This is somewhere below the Equator.
Approaching Hiva Oa. What a welcome sight!
Ancient Marquesan petroglyphs.
Tahauku bay, near Atuona, Hiva Oa.
Sailing around the southern edge of Tahuata.
Hana Moe Noe, one of my favorite places in the world. I spent weeks here on my last voyage 30 years ago. It was very good to be back.
The Swan at anchor in Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva.
Stone tikis on Nuku Hiva at Taiohae.
Matutiki, a real Marquesan.
Ancient tiki at a maemae above Taipivai.
Comptroller Bay, otherwise known as Typee by Herman Melville who spent time here. The village of Taipivai is in the trees ahead. Wonderful place.
John Shryock and Rhonda. John, from Pacific Star, is a consummate adventurer and great company. See Societies for more on Pacific Star.
A maemae near Taipivai, an historical spiritual site.
This is how we get around while cruising. Dave is bringing Patrick and John to Swan from Pacific Star (in the background).
Rhonda in the galley between islands. It is amazing what scrumptious meals she can whip up in such a small space constantly in motion.
Checking in with the gendarme at Hiva Oa. We used an agent of Polynesian Yacht Services. What a difference it made!
The village at Taiohae, Nuku Hiva. A beautiful French and Polynesian enclave full of things to see and explore.
Manta rays feeding around the boat at Tai Pi. It is only 15 feet deep here.
The head of Hana Fave (Virgin’s Bay), Fatu Hiva, one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen (photo courtesy Horst Wolff, s’v Pacific Star).
Our anchorage at Tai Pi on Nuku Hiva, once the fishing grounds of a huge Marquesan  village populated by thousands that is no more.
 
 
 
 
The Voyages: To the South Pacific, the Marquesas
We left our dear friends at Ventura West Marina and sailed South to San Diego. Except for the day sail from Mission Bay to San Diego, the passage was 147 miles of almost windless sailing in moderate swell. We rolled a lot. It tested how well we had stowed our gear and provisions (some things well, some not so well). We stayed in San Diego long enough to buy charts, cruising guides, flags and cloth to sew flags. We also did our final provisioning and cleared out with Customs. On March First, we set a course for Polynesia and left.
We were helped by so many good friends in San Diego with transportation and other assistance. Getting the job done without them would have been very tough. Our thanks forever.
The passage was a long one, 35 days, because we left early (March) before the Trades had fully established. Also, we didn’t use the engine, so the Doldrums were brutal. It took us 10 days to escape them. There was a north setting current in them that we fought the entire time. One day we made 24 miles before we were becalmed all night long. When we checked our position in the morning, we had lost the entire 24 miles and were still going backwards!
 
Next Page: Society Islands 
“At sea, I learned how little a man needs, not how much.”

 — Robin Lee Graham
Once we got below the Equator (at 129º W) the SE Trades slowly built and we were eventually doing 150 mile days. We arrived at Atuona on Hiva Oa on April 5th. We cleared in, spent five days sightseeing, then sailed for Hana Moe Noe on Tahuata. There, we rested up, did some maintenance on the boat (changed zincs, etc.) and did a lot of snorkeling. The water was beautifully clear and warm. We then sailed to Hanamenu on the north coast of Hiva Oa. We met a Canadian boat there. We all went ashore to explore and found a spring we could bathe and swim in. We then sailed over night to Nuku Hiva where we provisioned, visited select anchorages, including Tai Pi and did a lot of hiking. We also met up again with our good friends, Horst on Pacific Star and the Leibs on 59th Street Bridge.
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